I absolutely love Real Racing 3, but a lot of people are upset about the freemium model. It’s no wonder, when you consider the previous games were paid apps, but there really aren’t that many things standing between you and fun.
There seems to be an awfully vocal segment of the community upset about this not being a paid app. I get it. No one likes timers. However, these timers are miniscule compared to the fun you can have for next-to-nothing.
Let’s make free-to-play fun-to-play, again.
So, starting out, you’ve $35,000 cash and the choice between two cars: the NISSAN SILVIA (S15) and the FORD Focus RS.
Most people say to get the Nissan over the Ford. When you’re just starting, it probably is the sound choice due to the quicker acceleration. There are very few tracks where your top speed will matter as much as your acceleration, but let’s compare the two.
NISSAN SILVIA (S15)
Stock Purchase Stats:
- Top Speed – 151 mph
- Acceleration – 5.5 seconds
- Braking – 113.0 feet
- Traction – 0.85 g
Fully Upgraded Stats:
- Top Speed – 168 mph
- Acceleration – 5.0 seconds
- Braking – 108.0 feet
- Traction – 0.95 g
FORD Focus RS
Stock Purchase Stats:
- Top Speed – 163 mph
- Acceleration – 5.9 seconds
- Braking – 127.0 feet
- Traction – 0.94 g
Fully Upgraded Stats:
- Top Speed – 183 mph
- Acceleration – 5.3 seconds
- Braking – 117.0 feet
- Traction – 1.02 g
The honest answer, really, is that either one works just fine. The Silvia is probably the better choice, as it also can be upgraded directly after purchase with the remaining cash, but the Focus is easier to handle for novice racers and a far better choice on the Indianapolis Motor Speedway.
Honestly, though, both cars become rather worthless over time and are only useful for their tiny repair timers. You’ll be replacing it with a Dodge Challenger R/T (unlocks the V8 Muscle Hustle series) and/or BMW 1 Series M Coupe (unlocks the 6 CYL Annihilation Series) as soon as possible.
Some people say not to upgrade your starter cars, and that makes a little bit of sense. I say you should upgrade and grind out events instead. If you can’t get a Gold Trophy in an event, then you’re wasting your time. Upgrade them, but don’t fully upgrade them unless you’ve cash to spare.
Keep an Eye Out for “Showcase” Tiers
This is VERY important if you’re saving up for a car. First and foremost, target what you want to purchase. Be cognizant of where the car’s showcase falls in your current series (now marked with a car icon on the bottom of the race selection screen) and what other racing series the car will allow you to race in. While no car is truly redundant, there’s very little point to have crossover all over the place until you’re ready to 100% a series.
For instance, the Nissan Silvia(S15) and Ford Focus RS are in the exact same two tiers. There’s very little reason to own both cars, then. However, the Dodge Challenger R/T and BMW 1 Series M Coupe are in different racing series.
Every time you unlock the Showcase tier, you are given a one-time only 20% discount. If you have enough cash, you can buy the car on the cheap. If you don’t, then you’re going to have to pay full sticker price whenever you do buy it. Make sure you’ve got enough to buy the Dodge Challenger R/T and BMW 1 Series M Couple when the time comes.
The time and cash you save, especially early when you are basically broke, is significant. More importantly, getting this second and third car will lessen the impact of repair timers.
Add friends for TSM cash bonuses
GameCenter and Facebook are your friends, friends. As your friends race, they’ll leave some ghost data for you to compete against. You’ll net an extra 10% bonus money for every friend that you beat.
Feel free to leave your GameCenter or Facebook information in the comments below. It’ll give you a little extra boost as you try to scrimp and save.
Buy the McLaren MP4-12C
“But it costs Gold!” you say? Indeed, it does. Plus, the upgrades are VERY pricey with little numerical performance gain.
You’ll see, however, that EVERYONE is doing it. It’s simply too good to pass up compared to other cars in its racing tiers. It should be your third or fourth car, really.
The McLaren MP4-12C is a terrific car and gives you access to various racing series. It is the top performing vehicle for many of those series and handles well throughout.
As soon as you can get your grubby mitts on this car, do so. You can race it in the other series while waiting for your timers to expire and then use the cash towards upgrading your lower cars. Eventually, you’ll be able to upgrade your McLaren, as well, and it’ll all be worth it.
The Upgrade Timer mistake
All R$ car upgrades come on a timer, but that doesn’t mean you can’t race. Only Repair timers will put your car out of commission. The upgrades simply don’t take effect until the lousy timer expires. Still, if you’re having no trouble winning, there’s no sense in waiting around. Get your race on, son!
Daily Race Bonus
New to Real Racing version 1.2.0 is the Daily Race Bonus. It’s a simple R$ boost that grows up to 100% after five days. It’s kind of a letdown, seeing as Gold is the more exciting currency, but free cash is free cash.
Race once a day, even if it’s an Autocross or Drag Race, just to keep the bonus going.
Where to Use Your Bonus
I’m not terribly far in the game, but I’ve taken a shining to using my daily R$ boost in the PRO/AM > Performance Rumble > Speedrush TV Australasian Open > Endurance Race at Indianapolis Motor Speedway.
The version 1.2.0 update finally fixed Endurance Races for the better and the new cash system appears to pay out based upon mileage.
To enter this race, you’ll need one of the following vehicles:
- Dodge Challenger SRT8
- Nissan 370Z (Z34)
- Ford Shelby GT500
- BMW M3 GTS
The race takes anywhere from 5-10 minutes, depending on how good you are, and can easily net your R$20,000 for your troubles on a 100% bonus. Mind you, I’m not particularly good at the game and don’t own the top performing vehicle in the BMW M3 GTS.
How to Get Gold for Free in Real Racing 3
Though the game does ask for Gold early and often, it’s not that difficult to save up if you selectively use your gold.
There are two primary ways, other than in-app purchases, to gather Gold.
Additionally, we’re going to target the two cheapest Gold cars: the 2013 McLaren MP4-12C for 65 Gold and the Porsche 918 RSR Concept for 150 Gold.
Just keep playing the game. I know it’s hard to do when there are artificial barriers standing between you and progress that can be removed with a few Gold, but be patient and save up.
You receive 3 Gold for most levels, though levels ending with a “5” or a “0” (multiples of five) receive 5 Gold.
You also receive Gold when you reach 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% in an event series. Your progress is gauged by event trophies. The trophies are weighted by importance, so if you’re a point or two off a milestone, it might be worth racing old events where you picked up a bronze or silver trophy to hit that threshold.
So, basically, you get gold for playing the game. Shocking, isn’t it?
Using this Gold, you should be able to buy both cars around Level 40 or so (provided you have them unlocked because of the somewhat stupid changes found in Version 1.2.0).
Bear in mind, you will also need gold for some upgrades. The more expensive a car is, the more gold the game will require you to spend. Use it wisely and you should be okay.
Fill Out Surveys and Crap Like That
Yeah, I don’t think most people will do this and the options may be better for players within the continental US and other English-speaking countries, but I get nothing but lousy surveys here in South Korea. If you’re one or two Gold shy of some sort of goal, then go ahead. Otherwise, yeah, it’s an awful option for the most part.
Test out numerous control methods
While the default control options work very well overall, there are tons of other configurations that you might want to try. Additionally, at the start of a race, you can toggle your racing assistance options. More dedicated racers may want to consider turning down the brake assist to “Low”.
Again, while the default “High” is perfectly fine for the casual gamer, some players will be frustrated as they slowly round a curve and see their brake lights flicker while trying to catch up to the lead car. Turn it to “Low” or “Off” and see how you do. If you’re struggling to stay on the track, turn it back on after the race until you get a better feel for skid-free turning.
Cheat to Win #1
For whatever reason, it seems like keeping a lead is much easier than playing catch up.
One of the strategies that I’ve used that would have racing fans up in arms is intentionally crashing into a lead car to damage them. This is easiest to do as the computer rounds a curve. While you can still ram them with the brake assist set to “High”, it’s much easier and more effective to T-bone them at a higher speed.
While Real Racing tries often to play the racing simulation card, you simply cannot total your car. You will always, no matter what you hit, be able to finish a race. Use that knowledge to your advantage.
Yes, this is cheap and it cuts into your clean race bonus. But, damn, is it effective.
Cheat to Win #2
Having trouble getting a Gold Trophy against Time-Shifted Multiplayer racers? Go into Airplane mode and play the game offline. Firemonkeys apparently didn’t place much effort into making AI drivers, which makes sense when you consider how the game is built around TSM players, so you’ll make short work of your opponents.
Stay on the Road or Go Off-Road?
This is actually a difficult call here, as time spent off-track lowers your Clean Race Bonus. Less cash is always hard to recommend.
However, the difference in prize purses should dictate your choice. If you see an opportunity to pass one of the race leaders, take it. The difference in cash between first place and first loser is significant enough to offset the loss and car damage that occurs. Again, keeping a lead against the TSM racers seems appalling simple.
It’s as if one disruption is enough to change everything. Damn the butterfly effect!
Damn it, and damn Ashton Kutcher!
Fully Upgraded Real Racing 3 Stats List
A few notes about the cars:
Top speed is not terribly important, so do not make a purchase based entirely upon it. The only track where a car’s top speed comes into play is the “Speedway” track at Indianapolis Motor Speedway.
Acceleration is more important to winning overall. Acceleration upgrades should probably be prioritized, but don’t fret too much over it.
Brakes refers to the braking distance. Lower numbers are better in this category. If you race with the braking assistant on, then this is a very important upgrade. You’ll maintain higher speeds for just a bit longer, which should help you catch up in any tight race.
Grip refers to your car’s traction. The higher your traction rating, the faster you can go around curves without losing control. This statistic is more important for those racing without braking assistance.
PR is a car’s numeric Performance Rating. This is a general statistic that has no actual bearing on anything other than if you can enter the car into a Cup Race. Think of it as an overall score like those found in a Madden game except that will occasionally annoy you.
|Car Make and Model||Top Speed||Accel||Brakes||Grip||PR|
|Audi TT RS Coupe||174 mph||3.8 s||114.0 ft||0.99 g||29.2|
|Audi R8 V10 Coupe||207 mph||3.5 s||93.0 ft||1.30 g||55.1|
|Audi R8 LMS Ultra||212 mph||3.2 s||94.0 ft||1.47 g||63.9|
|Bentley Continental GT Speed||224 mph||3.7 s||94.0 ft||1.03 g||45.9|
|Bentley Continental Supersports||222 mph||3.4 s||98.0 ft||1.01 g||47.7|
|BMW 1 Series M Coupe||179 mph||4.5 s||100.0 ft||1.07 g||29.6|
|BMW Z4 M Coupe||178 mph||4.5 s||111.0 ft||1.00 g||24.5|
|BMW M3 Coupe||180 mph||4.2 s||104.0 ft||1.05 g||31.7|
|BMW Z4 SDRIVE35IS||181 mph||4.4 s||101.0 ft||1.06 g||30.7|
|BMW M3 GTS||203 mph||4.0 s||99.5 ft||1.05 g||37.1|
|BMW M6 Coupe||203 mph||3.8 s||99.0 ft||1.09 g||41.4|
|BMW Z4 GT3||197 mph||2.8 s||93.0 ft||1.40 g||63.5|
|BMW M3 GT2 ALMS||202 mph||2.7 s||94.0 ft||1.57 g||71.7|
|Bugatti Veyron 16.4||262 mph||2.3 s||95.0 ft||1.58 g||82.6|
|Chevrolet Camaro ZL1||194 mph||3.6 s||117.0 ft||1.09 g||37.2|
|Chevrolet Cobalt SS||175 mph||5.1 s||112.0 ft||0.97 g||15.4|
|Chevrolet Corvette ZR1||214 mph||3.0 s||96.0 ft||1.13 g||53.1|
|Dodge Charger R/T||166 mph||4.8 s||107.0 ft||0.95 g||19.3|
|Dodge Charger SRT8||193 mph||4.3 s||113.0 ft||1.00 g||28.5|
|Dodge Challenger R/T||183 mph||4.6 s||106.0 ft||0.99 g||23.4|
|Dodge Challenger SRT8||182 mph||4.2 s||108.0 ft||1.00 g||27.8|
|Dodge '71 Challenger RT||164 mph||5.6 s||119.0 ft||0.96 g||9.8|
|Dodge '69 Charger RT||170 mph||5.3 s||121.0 ft||0.97 g||14.6|
|Dodge Viper SRT10 Coupe||211 mph||3.4 s||99.0 ft||1.15 g||47.0|
|Dodge Viper SRT10 ACR-X||199 mph||3.0 s||93.0 ft||1.22 g||55.6|
|Ferrari FF||229 mph||3.2 s||100.0 ft||1.13 g||53.2|
|Ferrari 458 Italia||222 mph||2.9 s||97.0 ft||1.14 g||56.9|
|Ferrari F12Berlinetta||231 mph||2.5 s||94.0 ft||1.17 g||63.0|
|Ford Focus RS||183 mph||5.3 s||117.0 ft||1.02 g||16.7|
|Ford Shelby GT500||197 mph||3.8 s||102.0 ft||1.09 g||38.4|
|Ford Ford GT||215 mph||3.3 s||102.0 ft||1.05 g||48.2|
|Ford Ford GT FIA GT1||219 mph||2.8 s||94.5 ft||1.33 g||63.7|
|Koenigsegg CCXR||260 mph||2.7 s||97.0 ft||1.60 g||79.6|
|Koenigsegg Agera||276 mph||2.5 s||92.0 ft||1.62 g||84.4|
|Koenigsegg Agera R||278 mph||2.5 s||90.0 ft||1.71 g||89.3|
|Lamborghini Gallardo LP560-4||212 mph||3.3 s||100.0 ft||1.11 g||47.1|
|Lamborghini Gallardo LP560-4 GT3||215 mph||3.0 s||95.0 ft||1.18 g||56.2|
|Lamborghini Murcielago R-SV GT1||221 mph||2.7 s||97.0 ft||1.35 g||68.1|
|Lamborghini Aventador LP 700-4||227 mph||2.5 s||93.0 ft||1.18 g||62.9|
|Lexus IS 350 F Sport (2014)||173 mph||4.9 s||99.0 ft||1.02 g||17.5|
|Lexus IS F||204 mph||3.9 s||95.0 ft||1.09 g||41.4|
|Lexus LFA||220 mph||3.1 s||85.0 ft||1.19 g||61.2|
|McLaren MP4-12C||216 mph||2.6 s||94.0 ft||1.17 g||59.3|
|McLaren F1||241 mph||2.8 s||104.0 ft||1.40 g||67.0|
|Mercedes-Benz SLS AMG||213 mph||3.5 s||92.0 ft||1.08 g||48.1|
|Mercedes-Benz SL 65 AMG Black||216 mph||3.5 s||95.0 ft||1.10 g||49.2|
|Mercedes-Benz SLS AMG GT3||205 mph||3.0 s||92.0 ft||1.19 g||56.2|
|Nissan Silvia (S15)||168 mph||5.0 s||108.0 ft||0.95 g||13.7|
|Nissan Skyline GT-R V-SPEC (R34)||180 mph||5.2 s||113.0 ft||0.96 g||15.4|
|Nissan 350Z (Z33)||178 mph||4.7 s||105.0 ft||0.99 g||20.7|
|Nissan 370Z (Z34)||182 mph||4.6 s||102.0 ft||1.04 g||29.7|
|Nissan GT-R Premium (R35)||204 mph||2.4 s||95.0 ft||1.15 g||56.9|
|Nissan Sumo Power GT GT-R GT1||212 mph||2.7 s||94.0 ft||1.39 g||66.0|
|Nissan JR Motorsports GT-R GT1||211 mph||2.7 s||92.0 ft||1.39 g||67.0|
|Pagani Zonda F||228 mph||3.3 s||91.0 ft||1.57 g||69.1|
|Pagani Huayra||230 mph||2.8 s||91.0 ft||1.69 g||78.8|
|Pagani Zonda R||229 mph||2.3 s||90.0 ft||1.70 g||84.0|
|Porsche 911 Targa (1974)||161 mph||6.2 s||115.0 ft||1.05 g||8.7|
|Porsche 911 Carrera 2 Speedster (1993)||187 mph||4.5 s||99.0 ft||1.11 g||32.1|
|Porsche 911 Turbo (2009)||217 mph||2.4 s||95.0 ft||1.16 g||61.1|
|Porsche 911 GT3 RS||205 mph||3.5 s||93.0 ft||1.09 g||46.2|
|Porsche 911 GT3 RS 4.0||206 mph||3.4 s||93.0 ft||1.18 g||50.9|
|Porsche 911 Carrera RS 3.8 (1995)||199 mph||3.9 s||97.0 ft||1.13 g||41.4|
|Porsche 911 GT3 Cup||214 mph||3.0 s||94.0 ft||1.19 g||54.9|
|Porsche 911 GT2 (2003)||220 mph||2.9 s||95.0 ft||1.15 g||53.5|
|Porsche 911 Carrera RS 2.7 (1972)||179 mph||5.0 s||100.0 ft||1.11 g||23.9|
|Porsche Carrera GT||215 mph||3.3 s||94.0 ft||1.11 g||53.8|
|Porsche 918 RSR Concept||215 mph||2.7 s||92.0 ft||1.48 g||70.0|
|Porsche 918 Spyder Concept||218 mph||2.6 s||93.0 ft||1.53 g||72.9|
|Porsche 911 RSR (2013)||205 mph||2.2 s||83.0 ft||1.80 g||86.4|
|Shelby '66 Cobra 427||186 mph||3.7 s||107.0 ft||1.20 g||40.6|
|Shelby '67 Cobra GT500||176 mph||5.0 s||123.0 ft||1.00 g||19.0|
|SRT Viper GTS||215 mph||3.2 s||100.0 ft||1.16 g||52.3|
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About the Author
|Fade to Slack is a founding member of Delta Attack, an American expatriate in South Korea, and a true believer in the legitimacy of mobile gaming.
Keep up with him on Twitter at https://twitter.com/Fade2Slack so he can justify having a Twitter account.
Fade to Slack has written 330 posts on Delta Attack.