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Real Racing 3: Tips & Tricks Guide

Sunday, March 3rd, 2013 by

Real Racing 3 Tips & Tricks Guide
I absolutely love Real Racing 3, but a lot of people are upset about the freemium model. It’s no wonder, when you consider the previous games were paid apps, but there really aren’t that many things standing between you and fun.

There seems to be an awfully vocal segment of the community upset about this not being a paid app. I get it. No one likes timers. However, these timers are miniscule compared to the fun you can have for next-to-nothing.

Let’s make free-to-play fun-to-play, again.

Getting Started

So, starting out, you’ve $35,000 cash and the choice between two cars: the NISSAN SILVIA (S15) and the FORD Focus RS.

Most people say to get the Nissan over the Ford. When you’re just starting, it probably is the sound choice due to the quicker acceleration. There are very few tracks where your top speed will matter as much as your acceleration, but let’s compare the two.


Stock Purchase Stats:

  • Top Speed – 151 mph
  • Acceleration – 5.5 seconds
  • Braking – 113.0 feet
  • Traction – 0.85 g

Fully Upgraded Stats:

  • Top Speed – 168 mph
  • Acceleration – 5.0 seconds
  • Braking – 108.0 feet
  • Traction – 0.95 g


Stock Purchase Stats:

  • Top Speed – 163 mph
  • Acceleration – 5.9 seconds
  • Braking – 127.0 feet
  • Traction – 0.94 g

Fully Upgraded Stats:

  • Top Speed – 183 mph
  • Acceleration – 5.3 seconds
  • Braking – 117.0 feet
  • Traction – 1.02 g

The honest answer, really, is that either one works just fine. The Silvia is probably the better choice, as it also can be upgraded directly after purchase with the remaining cash, but the Focus is easier to handle for novice racers and a far better choice on the Indianapolis Motor Speedway.

Honestly, though, both cars become rather worthless over time and are only useful for their tiny repair timers. You’ll be replacing it with a Dodge Challenger R/T (unlocks the V8 Muscle Hustle series) and/or BMW 1 Series M Coupe (unlocks the 6 CYL Annihilation Series) as soon as possible.

Some people say not to upgrade your starter cars, and that makes a little bit of sense.  I say you should upgrade and grind out events instead. If you can’t get a Gold Trophy in an event, then you’re wasting your time. Upgrade them, but don’t fully upgrade them unless you’ve cash to spare.

Keep an Eye Out for “Showcase” Tiers

This is VERY important if you’re saving up for a car. First and foremost, target what you want to purchase. Be cognizant of where the car’s showcase falls in your current series (now marked with a car icon on the bottom of the race selection screen) and what other racing series the car will allow you to race in. While no car is truly redundant, there’s very little point to have crossover all over the place until you’re ready to 100% a series.

For instance, the Nissan Silvia(S15) and Ford Focus RS are in the exact same two tiers. There’s very little reason to own both cars, then. However, the Dodge Challenger R/T and BMW 1 Series M Coupe are in different racing series.

The savings are especially significant early on, so make sure you have enough.

Do not unlock the event until you have enough cash. Grind until you do.

Every time you unlock the Showcase tier, you are given a one-time only 20% discount. If you have enough cash, you can buy the car on the cheap. If you don’t, then you’re going to have to pay full sticker price whenever you do buy it. Make sure you’ve got enough to buy the Dodge Challenger R/T and BMW 1 Series M Couple when the time comes.

The time and cash you save, especially early when you are basically broke, is significant. More importantly, getting this second and third car will lessen the impact of repair timers.

Add friends for TSM cash bonuses

GameCenter and Facebook are your friends, friends. As your friends race, they’ll leave some ghost data for you to compete against. You’ll net an extra 10% bonus money for every friend that you beat.

Feel free to leave your GameCenter or Facebook information in the comments below. It’ll give you a little extra boost as you try to scrimp and save.

Buy the McLaren MP4-12C

“But it costs Gold!” you say? Indeed, it does. Plus, the upgrades are VERY pricey with little numerical performance gain.

You’ll see, however, that EVERYONE is doing it. It’s simply too good to pass up compared to other cars in its racing tiers. It should be your third or fourth car, really.

The McLaren MP4-12C is a terrific car and gives you access to various racing series. It is the top performing vehicle for many of those series and handles well throughout.

As soon as you can get your grubby mitts on this car, do so. You can race it in the other series while waiting for your timers to expire and then use the cash towards upgrading your lower cars. Eventually, you’ll be able to upgrade your McLaren, as well, and it’ll all be worth it.

The Upgrade Timer mistake

All R$ car upgrades come on a timer, but that doesn’t mean you can’t race. Only Repair timers will put your car out of commission. The upgrades simply don’t take effect until the lousy timer expires. Still, if you’re having no trouble winning, there’s no sense in waiting around. Get your race on, son!

Daily Race Bonus

This is just about the only thing that didn't upset people about 1.2.0.

This is just about the only thing that didn’t upset people about 1.2.0.

New to Real Racing version 1.2.0 is the Daily Race Bonus. It’s a simple R$ boost that grows up to 100% after five days. It’s kind of a letdown, seeing as Gold is the more exciting currency, but free cash is free cash.

Race once a day, even if it’s an Autocross or Drag Race, just to keep the bonus going.

Where to Use Your Bonus

I’m not terribly far in the game, but I’ve taken a shining to using my daily R$ boost in the PRO/AM > Performance Rumble > Speedrush TV Australasian Open > Endurance Race at Indianapolis Motor Speedway.

If there are better endurance races, let me know. This is my bread and butter.

If there are better endurance races, let me know. This is my bread and butter.

The version 1.2.0 update finally fixed Endurance Races for the better and the new cash system appears to pay out based upon mileage.

To enter this race, you’ll need one of the following vehicles:

  • Dodge Challenger SRT8
  • Nissan 370Z (Z34)
  • Ford Shelby GT500
  • BMW M3 GTS

The race takes anywhere from 5-10 minutes, depending on how good you are, and can easily net your R$20,000 for your troubles on a 100% bonus. Mind you, I’m not particularly good at the game and don’t own the top performing vehicle in the BMW M3 GTS.

If you're having trouble against TSM friends, remember that the AI cars suck.

If you’re having trouble against TSM friends, remember that the AI drivers suck.

How to Get Gold for Free in Real Racing 3

Though the game does ask for Gold early and often, it’s not that difficult to save up if you selectively use your gold.

There are two primary ways, other than in-app purchases, to gather Gold.

Additionally, we’re going to target the two cheapest Gold cars: the 2013 McLaren MP4-12C for 65 Gold and the Porsche 918 RSR Concept for 150 Gold.

Level Up

Just keep playing the game. I know it’s hard to do when there are artificial barriers standing between you and progress that can be removed with a few Gold, but be patient and save up.

You receive 3 Gold for most levels, though levels ending with a “5” or a “0” (multiples of five) receive 5 Gold.

Milestone Rewards

You also receive Gold when you reach 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% in an event series. Your progress is gauged by event trophies. The trophies are weighted by importance, so if you’re a point or two off a milestone, it might be worth racing old events where you picked up a bronze or silver trophy to hit that threshold.

The more events you open and play, the quicker you can gather gold.

The more events you open and play, the quicker you can gather gold.

So, basically, you get gold for playing the game. Shocking, isn’t it?

Using this Gold, you should be able to buy both cars around Level 40 or so (provided you have them unlocked because of the somewhat stupid changes found in Version 1.2.0).

Bear in mind, you will also need gold for some upgrades. The more expensive a car is, the more gold the game will require you to spend. Use it wisely and you should be okay.

Fill Out Surveys and Crap Like That

Yeah, I don’t think most people will do this and the options may be better for players within the continental US and other English-speaking countries, but I get nothing but lousy surveys here in South Korea. If you’re one or two Gold shy of some sort of goal, then go ahead. Otherwise, yeah, it’s an awful option for the most part.

Racing Strategies

Test out numerous control methods

While the default control options work very well overall, there are tons of other configurations that you might want to try. Additionally, at the start of a race, you can toggle your racing assistance options. More dedicated racers may want to consider turning down the brake assist to “Low”.

Again, while the default “High” is perfectly fine for the casual gamer, some players will be frustrated as they slowly round a curve and see their brake lights flicker while trying to catch up to the lead car. Turn it to “Low” or “Off” and see how you do. If you’re struggling to stay on the track, turn it back on after the race until you get a better feel for skid-free turning.

Cheat to Win #1

For whatever reason, it seems like keeping a lead is much easier than playing catch up.

One of the strategies that I’ve used that would have racing fans up in arms is intentionally crashing into a lead car to damage them. This is easiest to do as the computer rounds a curve. While you can still ram them with the brake assist set to “High”, it’s much easier and more effective to T-bone them at a higher speed.

While Real Racing tries often to play the racing simulation card, you simply cannot total your car. You will always, no matter what you hit, be able to finish a race. Use that knowledge to your advantage.

Yes, this is cheap and it cuts into your clean race bonus. But, damn, is it effective.

Cheat to Win #2

Having trouble getting a Gold Trophy against Time-Shifted Multiplayer racers? Go into Airplane mode and play the game offline. Firemonkeys apparently didn’t place much effort into making AI drivers, which makes sense when you consider how the game is built around TSM players, so you’ll make short work of your opponents.

Stay on the Road or Go Off-Road?

This is actually a difficult call here, as time spent off-track lowers your Clean Race Bonus. Less cash is always hard to recommend.

However, the difference in prize purses should dictate your choice. If you see an opportunity to pass one of the race leaders, take it. The difference in cash between first place and first loser is significant enough to offset the loss and car damage that occurs. Again, keeping a lead against the TSM racers seems appalling simple.

It’s as if one disruption is enough to change everything. Damn the butterfly effect!

Damn it, and damn Ashton Kutcher!

Fully Upgraded Real Racing 3 Stats List

A few notes about the cars:

Top speed is not terribly important, so do not make a purchase based entirely upon it. The only track where a car’s top speed comes into play is the “Speedway” track at Indianapolis Motor Speedway.

Acceleration is more important to winning overall. Acceleration upgrades should probably be prioritized, but don’t fret too much over it.

Brakes refers to the braking distance. Lower numbers are better in this category. If you race with the braking assistant on, then this is a very important upgrade. You’ll maintain higher speeds for just a bit longer, which should help you catch up in any tight race.

Grip refers to your car’s traction. The higher your traction rating, the faster you can go around curves without losing control. This statistic is more important for those racing without braking assistance.

PR is a car’s numeric Performance Rating. This is a general statistic that has no actual bearing on anything other than if you can enter the car into a Cup Race.  Think of it as an overall score like those found in a Madden game except that will occasionally annoy you.

Car Make and ModelTop SpeedAccelBrakesGripPR
Audi TT RS Coupe174 mph3.8 s114.0 ft0.99 g29.2
Audi R8 V10 Coupe207 mph3.5 s93.0 ft1.30 g55.1
Audi R8 LMS Ultra212 mph3.2 s94.0 ft1.47 g63.9
Bentley Continental GT Speed224 mph3.7 s94.0 ft1.03 g45.9
Bentley Continental Supersports222 mph3.4 s98.0 ft1.01 g47.7
BMW 1 Series M Coupe179 mph4.5 s100.0 ft1.07 g29.6
BMW Z4 M Coupe178 mph4.5 s111.0 ft1.00 g24.5
BMW M3 Coupe180 mph4.2 s104.0 ft1.05 g31.7
BMW Z4 SDRIVE35IS181 mph4.4 s101.0 ft1.06 g30.7
BMW M3 GTS203 mph4.0 s99.5 ft1.05 g37.1
BMW M6 Coupe203 mph3.8 s99.0 ft1.09 g41.4
BMW Z4 GT3197 mph2.8 s93.0 ft1.40 g63.5
BMW M3 GT2 ALMS202 mph2.7 s94.0 ft1.57 g71.7
Bugatti Veyron 16.4262 mph2.3 s95.0 ft1.58 g82.6
Chevrolet Camaro ZL1194 mph3.6 s117.0 ft1.09 g37.2
Chevrolet Cobalt SS175 mph5.1 s112.0 ft0.97 g15.4
Chevrolet Corvette ZR1214 mph3.0 s96.0 ft1.13 g53.1
Dodge Charger R/T166 mph4.8 s107.0 ft0.95 g19.3
Dodge Charger SRT8193 mph4.3 s113.0 ft1.00 g28.5
Dodge Challenger R/T183 mph4.6 s106.0 ft0.99 g23.4
Dodge Challenger SRT8182 mph4.2 s108.0 ft1.00 g27.8
Dodge '71 Challenger RT164 mph5.6 s119.0 ft0.96 g9.8
Dodge '69 Charger RT170 mph5.3 s121.0 ft0.97 g14.6
Dodge Viper SRT10 Coupe211 mph3.4 s99.0 ft1.15 g47.0
Dodge Viper SRT10 ACR-X199 mph3.0 s93.0 ft1.22 g55.6
Ferrari FF229 mph3.2 s100.0 ft1.13 g53.2
Ferrari 458 Italia222 mph2.9 s97.0 ft1.14 g56.9
Ferrari F12Berlinetta231 mph2.5 s94.0 ft1.17 g63.0
Ford Focus RS183 mph5.3 s117.0 ft1.02 g16.7
Ford Shelby GT500197 mph3.8 s102.0 ft1.09 g38.4
Ford Ford GT215 mph3.3 s102.0 ft1.05 g48.2
Ford Ford GT FIA GT1219 mph2.8 s94.5 ft1.33 g63.7
Koenigsegg CCXR260 mph2.7 s97.0 ft1.60 g79.6
Koenigsegg Agera276 mph2.5 s92.0 ft1.62 g84.4
Koenigsegg Agera R278 mph2.5 s90.0 ft1.71 g89.3
Lamborghini Gallardo LP560-4212 mph3.3 s100.0 ft1.11 g47.1
Lamborghini Gallardo LP560-4 GT3215 mph3.0 s95.0 ft1.18 g56.2
Lamborghini Murcielago R-SV GT1221 mph2.7 s97.0 ft1.35 g68.1
Lamborghini Aventador LP 700-4227 mph2.5 s93.0 ft1.18 g62.9
Lexus IS 350 F Sport (2014)173 mph4.9 s99.0 ft1.02 g17.5
Lexus IS F204 mph3.9 s95.0 ft1.09 g41.4
Lexus LFA220 mph3.1 s85.0 ft1.19 g61.2
McLaren MP4-12C216 mph2.6 s94.0 ft1.17 g59.3
McLaren F1241 mph2.8 s104.0 ft1.40 g67.0
Mercedes-Benz SLS AMG213 mph3.5 s92.0 ft1.08 g48.1
Mercedes-Benz SL 65 AMG Black216 mph3.5 s95.0 ft1.10 g49.2
Mercedes-Benz SLS AMG GT3205 mph3.0 s92.0 ft1.19 g56.2
Nissan Silvia (S15)168 mph5.0 s108.0 ft0.95 g13.7
Nissan Skyline GT-R V-SPEC (R34)180 mph5.2 s113.0 ft0.96 g15.4
Nissan 350Z (Z33)178 mph4.7 s105.0 ft0.99 g20.7
Nissan 370Z (Z34)182 mph4.6 s102.0 ft1.04 g29.7
Nissan GT-R Premium (R35)204 mph2.4 s95.0 ft1.15 g56.9
Nissan Sumo Power GT GT-R GT1212 mph2.7 s94.0 ft1.39 g66.0
Nissan JR Motorsports GT-R GT1211 mph2.7 s92.0 ft1.39 g67.0
Pagani Zonda F228 mph3.3 s91.0 ft1.57 g69.1
Pagani Huayra230 mph2.8 s91.0 ft1.69 g78.8
Pagani Zonda R229 mph2.3 s90.0 ft1.70 g84.0
Porsche 911 Targa (1974)161 mph6.2 s115.0 ft1.05 g8.7
Porsche 911 Carrera 2 Speedster (1993)187 mph4.5 s99.0 ft1.11 g32.1
Porsche 911 Turbo (2009)217 mph2.4 s95.0 ft1.16 g61.1
Porsche 911 GT3 RS205 mph3.5 s93.0 ft1.09 g46.2
Porsche 911 GT3 RS 4.0206 mph3.4 s93.0 ft1.18 g50.9
Porsche 911 Carrera RS 3.8 (1995)199 mph3.9 s97.0 ft1.13 g41.4
Porsche 911 GT3 Cup214 mph3.0 s94.0 ft1.19 g54.9
Porsche 911 GT2 (2003)220 mph2.9 s95.0 ft1.15 g53.5
Porsche 911 Carrera RS 2.7 (1972)179 mph5.0 s100.0 ft1.11 g23.9
Porsche Carrera GT215 mph3.3 s94.0 ft1.11 g53.8
Porsche 918 RSR Concept215 mph2.7 s92.0 ft1.48 g70.0
Porsche 918 Spyder Concept218 mph2.6 s93.0 ft1.53 g72.9
Porsche 911 RSR (2013)205 mph2.2 s83.0 ft1.80 g86.4
Shelby '66 Cobra 427186 mph3.7 s107.0 ft1.20 g40.6
Shelby '67 Cobra GT500176 mph5.0 s123.0 ft1.00 g19.0
SRT Viper GTS215 mph3.2 s100.0 ft1.16 g52.3

(Have a tip that you’d like to share? Leave it in the comments and become famous all over the world. Not because of the comment, mind you. This isn’t cause and effect. I’m giving you two directives. Don’t feel like commenting? Fine, do the other one, superstar.)

About the Author

Fade to Slack is a founding member of Delta Attack, an American expatriate in South Korea, and a true believer in the legitimacy of mobile gaming. Keep up with him on Twitter at https://twitter.com/Fade2Slack so he can justify having a Twitter account.

Fade to Slack has written 330 posts on Delta Attack

151 Responses to “Real Racing 3: Tips & Tricks Guide”

  1. boghi24 says:

    Thanks! great tips. Maybe you have one last piece of advice for me… I’m getting decent good at RR3, I have some 20 cars already and many 1th places. BUT…
    At V8 muscle hustle>Flag Racing Motorsport Carnival>Autocross Silverstone I get around 53sec while the first gets 36sec. I seems imposible to bridge the gap (I have all the updates on the car). Is there a shortcut on the track or some trick? thanks in advance.

    • The main trick, and I haven’t tested this out, is to go offline and play it. There must be a shortcut, likely involving driving through the grass without brake assistance.

      Sorry for the LONG delay in response. I completely missed it as I wasn’t following my own thread.

      • Manuel says:

        I’m level 92 now and can’t get past a few races. For example some in ”Pro/AM Supercar Club”. I’ve got all cars there, but find the Nissan R35 the only one able to keep up. But even that car I hate, since it has no grip or brake power to cope with the power it got.. Playing offline worked for me here!

        Weird thing, with the Ford GT showcase (another car I don’t like) it didn’t work. It’s the one were you only got 2 rounds to pass a lot of cars, and Ford GT is a beautifully oldskool looking car, but doesn’t have great acceleration nor does it have any grip..

        Also, what I really wanna know: What are the best races to repeat to make some money? What makes most R$ compared to the time you have to invest in the race?

        • William Beswick says:

          To make the most money without a lot of time is the Melbourne circuits with the BMW M3 GT2 ALMS and the Nissan JR GTR Alcolade Melbourne race

          • Jan Mleziva says:

            The best I have found so far is the very last race of PRO -> Accolade Open (5 laps of Suzuka GP circuit. In BMW M3 GT2 ALMS you will be doing that in 8:30-40 and with bonus it will net you 40K. LAter on during the day it is very profitable to run 2x Melbourne circuit (4 laps) from last tier in the same series (both will net you a bit ove 10K) and then, even if your car is slightly critically damaged do Suzuka circuit. These 3 races will earn you 40K.

            • Eris Karreci says:

              what version of the game are you playing? I have played the last race Suzuka , with 5 laps, won the race and got only 7k for it. I’m on version 1.2.0

              • Jan Mleziva says:

                I am using version 1.4.0 (Ferrari Update).
                Now when the prize money ahs been increased, you can get arounf 70K with a bonus and 140K if you add hire a manager, too. You get 38K without any bonuses

            • gl3nn says:

              I do race at that track with the same car but our big difference is the prize & fame,,, R$140,000 & 11, 600 fame/ single race,,, would you like to see a proof? I’ll post it to Facebook, add me-glenmorebay083@yahoo.com

              • Jan Mleziva says:

                Glenn, prize money and fame earning has been greatly increased in Ferrari Update which has been released after I posted my info. Your values are in line with what I see now. Although you can only get these with hired crew, otherwise you “only” get 70K R$ and 5800 fame

              • loloyd says:

                It appears that you keep posting this invitation without ever posting the picture. Here is my version of what you are claiming so there’s no big deal about it as I believe others are achieving this as well (with Agent Manager and Daily 100% Bonus).

          • Eris Karreci says:

            I dont think so

          • loloyd says:

            That actually makes sense. The Melbourne circuits take only around a minute to complete a lap (under a minute if using a high-PR car), and the corresponding prize money is high as well. However, I find that it does make me *dizzier* than Suzuki Grand does. :-)

        • kwilliam71 says:

          PRO/AM -> Everyday Heroes -> Turbo Burst World Championships Round 1 (series 18) -> Cup @ Hockenheimring = R$15k (before bonus)

          Please share others and add me to your GameCenter (kylemay).

          • Eris Karreci says:

            PRO/AM -> Everyday Heroes -> Turbo Burst World Championships Round 1 (series 18) -> Cup @ Hockenheimring gives you 14,450 before bonus.
            The best I’ve reached so far is ELITE -> GT1 Grad Tour ->Supafly intercontinental Showdown Round 2, series 16, Cup Mount panorama, 5 laps with lamborghini Murcielago, requires PR = 61, gives more than R$15k before bonus, but I could be a little ahead of you, driver level 134, own 52 out of 58 cars (have not upgraded to the old cars version, porsche update or ferrari, and will NOT update)

  2. Really good tips and tricks. Thank you.

  3. Curtis Hamlett says:

    Great info, “Slack!” GREAT R$ (14,700) & Fame (2200) RACE (1st Place, of course) – “PRIME PRODUCTION MATCHUP” – “CUP Hockenheimring Grand Prix Circuit” – Audi TT RS Coupe (maximum upgrades) – Not bad for roughly 7 minutes of work. To ensure victory, you should dive-bomb the first 2 turns, which should get you into 6th place, prime for picking off the top five one at a time (4 lap event). I have been playing this game for about 2 weeks. I have 8 cars (all but 1 maximum upgraded, including the Maclaren MP4-12C) and I have not paid for anything. LOVE this format, much like traditional EA Sports GT/Gran Tourismo game from last decade–AWESOME!

    • Hehe… love the idea of “dive bombing” to get through. In my head, I always thought of it as a “bull rush” or “bumper cars.”

      I’ve found there’s very good money in the “Finals” series, as well. However, if you have enough friends that play, it’s very easy to get tons of cash on 16 and 22 car races with less time involved.

      I’ve got 16 cars (though only 3 or 4 are maxed out), and I could have had more if I didn’t save up for a few more expensive, but discounted, weekly showcase cars.

      Great to hear that there’s something worth reading, though. I did
      pony up $1.99 for the Starter’s Pack before it released worldwide (the timers were MUCH longer back then), but I know there’s plenty of game to be played for free.

      Thanks for the tip. I hope it helps people out who might be scrimping and saving for those Koenigsegg cars.

      • Curtis Hamlett says:

        It is detrimental for new users to just stack up on the cars. In my opinion, it is far better to upgrade the cars you have, so that you are the class of the field. $ is not used to max out most cars (you need gold…and LOTS of it), so there will be PLENTY of $ to buy cars as you progress. Losing over and over again does not build character; it makes you bored of getting your @$$ kicked all over the track (but it does help you learn the tracks).

        Build up your cars (I definitely recommend purchasing the McClaren @ 75 gold pieces and upgrading it; there is not a car on the track that can tame this BEAST, @ least for the $). Persistence is your best friend. I still have not spent REAL $, and I am up to 11 cars (all but 2 max upgraded), and I have plenty of events to keep me busy (I am currently @ driver level 70). Remember, the ultimate goal of the game is not to own all of the cars, but rather to collect gold trophies from all events. A flashy garage means nothing without the hardware in the trophy case.

        Oh yeah, and don’t get sucked into painting your cars…a good waste of your precious gold (OK, I did paint my BMW Z4 M Coupe; I HATE that default mauve color–awful!). Hope any of this info is helpful! More info as it becomes available. One last thing…DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT!

        • I still stand behind the idea of getting as many as you can to avoid downtime early on and then focusing on upgrading them afterwards. It’s very possible to win most races without a fully upgraded vehicle, meaning that the final Gold upgrades can be put off until necessary.

          People looking to 100% a series, for instance, won’t need all four cars maxed.

          I’d say get five cars as soon as possible to offset the repair timers. Afterwards, focus on what really needs upgraded and play to your strengths.

          Additionally, some people may want the Gold cars without paying. For those people, avoiding the final upgrades for all but a few cars may be more important.

          I only have five cars fully upgraded out of the 16 that I own. I don’t feel like I’ve been struggling to pick up 1st place trophies, but it takes different strokes to move the world.

          • Curtis Hamlett says:

            Duly noted regarding car collecting. There are a few tracks that require the maximum your car has to offer, even if you drive mistake-free (i.e. Brand’s Hatch-Indy Cicuit). As I have painfully discovered, the Dodge Viper has met it’s match in the Nissan GT-R (R35). I digress…

            On another note, I just found a bug in the game. In the AUTO BATTLE ROYALE-Modern Sports Classics series, I have collected all of the gold trophies (39), yet the series still says 97%. I just defeated the last track (Nissan GT-R Premium (R35) Showcase), and all of the boxes in this series contain gold circular checks. Any idea of how or why this series will not allow me 100% completion? Thanks again for the great info!

            • Manuel says:

              That bug came in when the Chevrolet update was released. They have released a fix for this bug now.

              My guess is that it’s because of the Corvette that is probably coming, it will be the fourth car in 2 events that currently have 3 cars and got stuck on 97% before. You also see Corvettes driving around in these events.

              • I was just about to ask you if the update removed that bug. Good to see it’s all cleared up. Did you get your completion bonus for it, as well?

                I still think Mazda vehicles are coming, if only because the banners were prominent in the launch trailer for the Chevy vehicles.

                • Manuel says:

                  For one of them I already had a completion bonus. I didn’t get a pop-up with bonus again, so I don’t think I got a bonus for it again. I think they just corrected the error from 97% back to 100% (as it was in my game before the Chevy update).

                  I’d like to see new cars, any new cars really. I play the game because of the awesome cars. Mazda’s wouldn’t be my first choice, but I’d buy them.

                  I’d love to see Mercedes, Ferrari, Jaguar, maybe even Land Rover, Alfa Romeo, in other words: European cars. But that’ll take a while. But I’ve got to say, love that they put an update out so fast. No one finished all first 900 events and 46 (?) cars when that update came I guess. EA: keep them coming!

                  Oh, and as a Dutchie: Spyker!

  4. Ian Sterne says:

    Thanks for the tips. I have worked my way up to 26 cars and 75% through the game, considering I have no friends on Facebook or Game Centre this has been a cash challenge.

    I have one questions about the 20% one time discount on cars, are they offered on the cars purchased with gold? With one car at 400 gold and another at 800 gold a 20% discount would be a considerable savings.

    Game Center !+IWS+!

    • Yes, those cars do qualify for a showcase discount.

      Adding friends definitely help you gather cash, but it’s not too hard to just play the heck out of the game when you’ve got that many cars.

  5. Big Rob says:

    never ever wait for repairs or upgrades,flip to airplane/offline mode reset the clock on your device forward by a couple of hours as required,re-enter game and repairs are done..
    This saves loads of gold to buy McLaren MP4 and Porsche 918 RSR both of these will make you mega bucks in no time with just a couple of minor upgrades

    • I, and a lot of other players, don’t particularly like tinkering with the internal clocks. I’ve logged just over two days worth of race time in the game and have 16 cars including the McLaren MP4 and Porsche 918.

      However, this is a great tip for any impatient players who might not know that it’s even possible, so thanks for posting.

  6. Manuel says:

    By the way, when does damage take effect? It makes sense to think it would be immediately, during the race. But it seems that maintenance (oil, engine, etc.) doesn’t affect your car immediately. Sometimes required engine maintenance has run the top speed down to even 230 km/h (~140 mph) but I’ve driven much faster on the track. And what about damage like the ECU stuff etc.?

    • I’m not actually sure when it takes effect, though I’d imagine it’s not immediately. It’s hard to gauge, especially when physics is involved, but I believe it’s after the race. However, there have been times when it seems like my car’s been sluggish or that I just starting falling behind for no reason that may have been due to necessary maintenance.

      Again, no way to tell other than to beat the hell out of a car and then test it out. I’ll be honest: that’s more work than I’m willing to do at the moment.

      • I think damage takes effect through the race but I think competing cars are also suffering the effects of wear and tear. So everyone is slowing down together. Driving on the grass and crashing etc. will create more wear and tear than what the other cars are experiencing since they don’t go off track as much

        • Jan Mleziva says:

          Damage done by crashes takes effect right away, however maintenance damage takes place after the race. Way to test? Take a car that is almost critically damaged and take it to a long race (3-4 laps on Spa, Suzuka GP, Mount Panorama… ). Drive last and be very careful not to crash at all. Your car would otherwise be in critical condition somewhere midway lap 1, but you are still able to perform normally in lap 3

          • It’s hard to actually gauge if damage takes effect or if it’s merely cosmetic. Yes, you’ll see broken glass and all, but it’s next to impossible to gauge the difference when it takes mere milliseconds off of acceleration or top speed. Additionally, damage is now never even shown to have an effect, as it’s automatically repaired after a race and deducted from the clean race bonus.

            The only way to tell would to be taking a car onto a track, beating the hell out of it until the bumper was hanging, a mirror was broken, and both windshields were shattered and comparing those numbers to a few control laps. That’s far more work than I’m willing to do for something like that.

          • There’s really no way to be certain, though, without testing or being told so.

            I’ve intentionally hit the left wall right before the lap mark at top speed on the Speedway at Indianapolis Motor Speedway track. You’ll ricochet and hear shattered glass. Cosmetically, the damage is certainly there with a broken windshield and dented hood (though it would have killed anyone inside). However, I was able to get back to my top speed (183 mph using the Ford GT500) on a subsequent lap.

            I think crashing actually has no effect on your car’s performance. It may have in the past when things needed repaired piece-by-piece, but there’s just not enough degradation to tell a difference.

            Additionally, note that it’s not difficult to get lap times equal or faster than previous laps, excluding the first lap where you have extra ground to travel.

  7. Crews Giles says:

    Good tips which match my experience.

    I’m determined to win my way to gold cars, and now guard my gold since my first few days of playing.

    This method seems to match an “organic” intent of the game– completing a
    series to 100% requires cars and upgrades which open other series.

    Without spending real dollars, here is what I have for others to compare the “patience-factor”:

    Level 73 (481 of 1075 events completed)
    $48,380 cash (of not quite 5 million earned)
    514 gold (of 619 earned– fighting back to 600 in anticipation of the Koenigsegg car going on sale)
    16 of 48 cars owned

    Useful observations:

    * Some races require playing online opponents to win 1st– some require playing only AI opponents.
    * With 16 cars I am in 17 of the 29 series sets and so never without a race– and sometimes have as many as 5 waiting on timer.
    * I, now, never upgrade a car past the cash upgrades– I suspect after I have purchased the cars which require gold to buy, I will probably begin using those final upgrades with spare gold.
    * After buying a few affordable cars to open a series to me, I now buy and upgrade (R$ only) to complete to 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% so that I receive the gold awards for those.

  8. Aman Singh says:

    RR3 hangs/freezes.
    i play it on my micromax canvas hd
    it freezes on dat reach at highest speed event
    nd i have to restart my phone by pulling out d battery

  9. pirlouit says:

    Nice tips !
    23 cars (not all fully upgrade, just the best ones), level 87 and I didn’t spend true $$ so far. Sometimes it’s hard but it’s fun !

    I try to be «as true as possible», so no offline, off-road or cheat.

    The Porsche 911 (GT3 cup, GT3 RS and RS 4.0) are good ones. The Audi R8 V10 too. Both have good grip and are fun to race !

    Add me on Game Center: pirlouit_433

  10. Syclone0044 says:

    The info for the Fully Upgraded BMW GT2 ALMS is incorrect. See this screenshot: http://i.imgur.com/dDoJYhM.jpg. For 47 gold you can upgrade drivetrain 2.7s -> 2.6s. Not the 2.7 limit posted in this guide. It makes me suspicious of the rest of the data. What is the source of this data? Did the Chevrolet update change existing cars?

    • I culled this data myself. It’s legitimate, though the methods used to procure them weren’t.

      The only way these numbers could be wrong is if the Android and iOS versions differ (they don’t) or I made a boneheaded typo.

      Please look at your screenshot again. I don’t know where you got 2.6s from, but that screen also shows 2.7s.

  11. Curtis Hamlett says:

    Hey Slack! I just raced myself silly (using the McClaren MP4-12C & Audi R8 V10 Coupe @ Brands Hatch “AUTOCROSS”, earning $1,300 & $1,400 respectively for each race) and earned enough R$ to buy the Koenigsegg Agera ($2,210,500 pure awesomeness, and well worth the hassle). I also discovered outrageous upgrade prices ($146,000 for the first engine upgrade; cheapest upgrade thus far has been the first level brakes @ $91,000). Also, the repairs for this car take HOURS…even for an oil change. I look forward to getting this one totally maxed out; it has been competitive on the track, but as with other cars, no matter how much you upgrade them, they are still outmatched by better cars in their respective series. I am 79% complete with 28 cars, and a driver level of 118. Obviously there is still a lot of racing left for completion.

    • Sorry for the late reply. I’ve been relatively inactive on site.

      Those are insane numbers, but it’s great to see someone actually farmed enough cash for the big bad Agera. Please tell me you at least had some friends also racing for bonus cash, or did you really race those a couple thousand times?

      • Curtis Hamlett says:

        Hi Slack! Seems I am the one slacking! No, I have not raced friends for bonus cash. I do not login to Facebook (nor will I ever). Since posting above, I have purchased the Bugatti Veyron 16.4, which is also pretty awesome. Here are my current stats: Driver Level 148; 39 Cars Owned (18 maxed out), 90% complete, and I still have not spent a real penny on this game.

        In my most logical state of mind, I have found that the fastest way to earn R$ is to run Brand’s (a.k.a. “BRAKES”) Hatch Autocross with any of the 4 cars that qualify (Audi R8 V10 Coupe, Lamborghini Gallardo LP560-4, Porsche Carrera GT, SRT Viper GTS). 1st place yields 1,400 R$, and there is rarely if ever any repairs needed, saving you even more R$. Also, I can run with the Audi (maxed out) for up to 125,000 R$, sometimes more depending on the time I have to beat (usually 27:177, but sometimes the time is in the 28-second range). For instance, on this latest instance of Brand’s Hatch (running the Audi), the time I have to beat is 28:110. I do believe in fact the numbers fluctuate based on how a user is progressing through the game. It’s almost as if the further you go, the more “breaks” you get. Finally, the total cost for service on the Audi is R$5,260, so practically all of your winnings are profit. Even with 4 of the 5 “service” parts in the red (except for the engine, which takes the longest to wear out), this car will continue to score first place finishes.

        Are you planning to re-post the maxed out numbers for all of the cars again? I can see where this might be an arduous task, but I often found that a useful tool in picking the car I would get next. One suggestion–if you choose to post that great list again, would you consider adding the cost of each car, as well as the total cost (R$ & gold) for maxing it out? I just got sticker shock the first time I went to upgrade the Koenigsegg.

        Also, do you know if there are any further updates planned for RR3? I would love to see Maserati, Ferrari & Mercedes get in on this action! Not to mention, that Lexus LFA could use some competition. I would also like to see a 1.5 mile NASCAR track embedded (Charlotte) or maybe the big boy (Talladega; 2.66 miles, 33° banking), so we could wind these things up all the way!

        This game is AWESOME! Best wishes, and I look forward to your response!

        • I haven’t contacted the EA PR guy since February, but there’s no doubt more on the way. When it comes, I’ll update the database for more stats.

          I’ll keep updating the final stats for every update. As far as I’m aware, these are all up-to-date, but I’ve admittedly played sporadically this month.

          I’m still waiting for Mazda cars. It just seems so strange not to have Mazda when there is a Mazda-sponsored track in the game, but there are tons of manufacturers I’d like to see.

          The nerd in me would kill for a DeLorean.

          • Curtis Hamlett says:

            A DeLorean? Just keep that baby under 88mph (“…or you may see some serious $#!t”)! I just completed 96%, and I am looking forward to the new cars!

            I hear lots of talk regarding the coming update, but when will it arrive? I am in L.A., USA, and it appears as though the update is sent to different regions of the World @ different times.

            Thanks again for the great info & site!

  12. Muzzammil Sajjad says:

    thanks for the tips… but i came looking for how to deal with endurance events … are there any guidelines … the early endurance events are a joke but as the game gets a little tougher like the muscle car series … the difference between silver and gold is like double the miles required … something has to give … any ideas ? are there any guidelines to follow for those endurance races … like stay on track? or dont hit cars? or something ??

    • The biggest tip, if you’re only looking to grab gold, is already in there. You missed it.

      Turn off Wi-Fi, restart the app, and face the AI competition. Then, when you want that stiffer competition, go back to playing as was.

      Otherwise, yes, all those things you suggested are good starts. Endurance mode is still very buggy, from the looks of it, and is my least favorite mode because of it.

    • Aleks says:

      Hey, the best thing you can do is not get damaged!

      If you need help with any specific race, specify the series/race and I’ll let you know.

    • I’ve noticed that the times change sometimes. Some days the competition will be near impossible. If I quit it and come back to it another day the times are shorter. I don’t know if this is because we are getting the results of different racers but you might want to come back at different times of the day and see if that changes anything

  13. Thanks for those tips about airplane mode. That helped me to close out a couple series.

    Here are some driving tips(with the brake settings on ‘low’):

    When you are approaching a difficult corner, use the map to guide your braking. As soon as you see the corner form on your map, then you can hit the brakes and you will slow down enough to take the corner smoothly

    When you are in a corner and you need to brake, you usually only need to brake for the first 1/3 to 1/2 of the turn. If you release your brakes after that point, you will usually get a pop coming out of the turn if you do it right, maintain control and gain a little ground on the other cars.

    Passing into a turn. This is my favorite tip and I discovered it after being in the game for a while. The other cars will always swing wide going into a corner. If you are close enough behind them, you can pull up almost beside them. If you coast into the turn, watch for their brake lights and wait for them to be applied first. You can use trial and error but if you wait a split second longer than that to apply your brakes, you can usually gain a lot of ground on them in the turn and pass them smoothly if you are close enough going into the turn. They lose a lot of speed just in that split second

    Finally, I HATE MELBOURNE!

    • Aleks says:

      I LOVE Melbourne, and not just because I’m from there. Which is handy because I met the lead designer of RR3 last weekend at a party, and he really appreciated my feedback on the game as what he defined a hardcore player.

      What I’d really like to know is if you guys have seen me around or want to add me to Game Center. As we all know, currently there is no way to know if you actually are the best, or near the best player on a race, but if I’m meant to be racing against people at my level I don’t get why there are so many bad times.

      My Game Center is “thisrocks” and I race logged into Facebook, so you’d probably see “Aleksandar S”

      • I don’t have a major problem with Melbourne but it sure is a frustrating track to drive. There is very little room for error and it is very difficult to pass. Especially on the short races.

        I always score a lot of damage trying to win that course

        • Curtis Hamlett says:

          Melbourne is too narrow, and too much speed for those tight corners. I dread racing that track with 22 cars on it. Not too bad in Elimination, or Autocross mode, but the Cups all aggravate me to no end. I would much rather race Mount Panorama in Australia instead! LOVE that downhill speed! FYI, 92% complete, 155 driver level, 39 cars owned. RR3 ROCKS!

          • Likang Cheng says:

            I absolutely own at Melbourne regardless of what event it is. Some tips for everyone: in a cup event in Melbourne,once you turn the first corner AFTER the starting line, apply some brakes to clear it. Don’t worry about the Hussle n bussle. Then with the s turn don’t press the brakes, let thenm do it for you. (low brake assis). Then for next turn do apply slight brakes, just so u don’t slide. Then don’t press the brakes ever again. Be carefully when going through corners. Its easy if u have good lines. T
            So don’t press brakes till the start corner again.

  14. Would it be possible to add a list of races and how much you can earn from each one? This would be very helpful for when we are trying to build up cash.


    • To get those numbers without hacking files, I would have to race over 1,000 events, place first in each, and record information including series name, location, laps, race type, money, and time invested. Plus I would have to type and organize it.

      Sorry, but that’s far more work than I’m interested in putting into this guide right now.

      The general rule of thumb is that there are two ways to garner cash: Final Race Series events and short Events like the Autocross that you can play over and again to farm cash. Series with more expensive cars tend to have higher rewards.

  15. Freddy Lara says:

    i guess your gonna have to fix the guide a lot after the new update lol id really love for more info on it since i have a winning streak of over 500 gold trophies and dont wanna mess up.

    • I’m going to take a few days to parse through and then see how it goes. But, yeah, racing like it’s bumper cars no longer seems ideal from what I’ve read.

      This isn’t the first time a developer kind of messed up one of my guides, but it looks like a very good update overall.

  16. Curtis Hamlett says:

    WOW! Feels almost like a NEW RR3! (almost)…I love the new found respect for the upgrades to the cars. I did not appreciate the reduction in payout for the Autocross races, which until now have been my bread and butter for earning R$, but I have found a new R$-maker: PRESTIGE POWERMATCH/SUPAFLY BURN RUBBER EXPOSITION/AUTOCROSS. Using the Bentley Continental GT Speed, you can raise some serious cash (23 of 30 upgrades complete; all but final gold upgrades performed). Even after the Bentley is worn slam out, if the top time to beat is in the 19-second range, you can still get gold by cutting across the middle of the track, taking a shorter more direct route to the finish line. Admittedly, the driving is sloppy, but all that really counts is the R$.

    I am now @ driver level 163, 91% complete (1207 of 1313 events complete), and I own 43 cars. I will offer more info as I continue to race.

    BTW, one of the point achievements you can earn is “Ultimate Velocity” by reaching 250mph. Where in this game can I get one of these hypercars up to that speed (my Agera has 14 of 24 upgrades complete; my Bugatti has 17 of 24)? Are these 2 cars just not strong enough, or are they in need of further upgrades? Also, are these achievement points meaningful in any way (I have earned 375 points)? Thanks again for the info!

    • Gautam Mehra says:

      Fantastic upgrade, however I find it odd that I’m only allowed to purchase The lowest Bentley in the Prestige Pwermatch Series, similarly m only allowed to buy the Porsche 918 Spyder concept in Supercar Elites, but I was saving to buy a Pagani. I only had like 4 events locked, but all have so many restrictions NOW on what I can purchase, I’d have to waste a lot of money to buy a car I don’t like, and unlock one I intended to buy. I have 800 gold now, buy my agera R is locked :(…I wish I bought my cars before I upgraded.

    • efri says:

      The Dubai Autocross tip is sweet! I am using the Mercedes AMG w/some upgrades (just because I had it all in the red) and have clocked 16.477 as the best time and always under 19… this means about R$2400/min. Thank you!!!

    • Lev1948 says:

      I’m at driver level 251 and own 71 of 79 cars and the way i got to 250 mph was this: using the Bugatti Veyron 16.4 (18 out of 24 upgrades) was at Mount Panorama. Run with all assists off and when the race starts, keep your foot lightly on the brake until the rest of the field are well clear and make your way slowly to the top of the hill. As you round the last bend to enter the long down hill straights let her go and don’t touch the brakes. Don’t attempt to go round the last chicane go straight across the grass and crash but you should have reached 250 mph at this point. You aren’t doing this to win the race just to achieve 250 mph. It may take several attempts but I did it in the end.

      • loloyd says:

        I do the exact same thing for lower than 250mph achievements in other cars. Two assists that need to be turned off here are the braking assist (for no auto-brakes) and the steering assist (for not guiding you slightly to turn left), and I can leave the traction control on. It is only in the downhill Mount Panorama where we can achieve this kind of acceleration and speed, I think.

        I already own the Veyron and Zenith was only a handful of races away before unlocking, until RR3 updated and the new version rearranged the Ferrari series (previously, they were both located at the end, past Zenith). One of these Ferrari series blocked my Zenith path and reset it to unlock again by 40+ (I forget) trophies. :-(

    • alreadynamed says:

      are u saying you have not reached over 250 mph? Using the Agera u can reach that speed easy with brakes off on any Mount Panorama track. There are some sharp steep sloped corners towards the last half of the track that u have to manuver, after that it is downward almost straight slope that u can hit max speeds.

  17. For the daily R$ bonus I always race the supercar masters series using the Audi R8 V10 coupe. The race is the suzuka circuit cup under the Mastare Global Pro Championships Round 1 (in the second to last racing series)

    The reason I like this one is that, with the bonus, you are earning 26K per race and the damage to your car should be minimal. You can sneak by most of the cars in the first series of snaking turns and by the time you get into the long stretches you can easily be in first to third place.

    Usually the bonus money for not damaging my car pays for the mandatory maximum repairs at the end of the race and the fame bonus is 2500 which is pretty good

    As for the new format, one thing I definitely like is the limits to repair costs. I think we got a huge bonus there. I’ve done some serious smash and bash in some races and have seen my repair costs only hit the maximum of $1000 or $1500. This is the first game that actually lets me feel like a banker or politician LOL!

    • The given picture is a pretty bad example for that Endurance run and not with the top performing vehicle. I’d expect the BMW M3 Coupe to do better once fully (or almost fully) upgraded.

      However, how long does that race take to finish? The Endurance run takes between eight and ten minutes on average, depending on how well you do. If the times are comparable, then I’d surely look into adding this to the list of races to burn the boost.

    • Crews Giles says:

      Thanks for the R$ farming experience.

      I’ll add… both the Viper (at 17/24) and the 911 (at 16/20) will win that race.

    • Roman Yanishevskiy says:

      For the daily R$ bonus I recommend “Everyday heroes” and Porsche GT3 RS (5th race from the end – Hockenheimring Cup) – about 30K$+ daily per race, incl. full repair (about 1k$).

  18. Goalmaker88 says:

    As an RR1 and RR2 fan, I’m still very upset with this new one, but I still play like an addict cause I like it
    Anyway, another tip that’s worked in all the games is that there are small shortcuts on a few of the tracks, so don’t be afraid to go way offroad to shave a second or 10 feet of braking.
    Also, if you lose the races get toooo easy so. That’s a “tip”.
    TIP buy as few cars as possible and focus your money on the big main race series.
    BIGGEST TIP: learn how to drive fast. Go to racing sites to learn lines and car handling. Learn early apex and late apex. Your line should be way better than the computers’ lines. Even though we start in last place, I like that the AI cars now use defensive lines.

    Request: could you please put up the max PR of each car. I’m trying to unlock some series and can’t decide if spending money on the car will be enough.

    • Yeah, I get how people could be upset about the difference in pay models, especially the repairs and all that, but if you’ve enough cars to race other series, you never really lose time. The newest update made the repair time on starter cars almost negligible.

      I’ve never researched early apex and late apex, though I’d imagine that’s what I learned playing Forza with the helping lines on.

      I’ll put the performance rating up in the coming days. I was really trying to hold out for a Bentley and Mercedes Benz update, but I’ve at least another week of grinding until I unlock the series. However, for the first 57 cars, I can post the PR fairly easily.

    • Sorry it took so long, as I had loaned out my tablet that had all the cars upgraded. Done and done, asides from the Bentley and Mercedes-Benz cars. I’ll get those up sometime this week.

  19. Curtis Hamlett says:

    Hey Slack! First of all, I have found that the time trial shadow car does not necessarily represent the car you are driving, but rather the fastest lap turned by your fastest car in each respective series. For example, in the “6 CYL ANNIHILATION SERIES”, I own all 4 cars (1999 Nissan Skyline GT-R V-Spec (R34) FULLY UPGRADED, Nissan 370Z (Z34) 2 of 20 upgrades, BMW 1 Series M Coupe FULLY UPGRADED, BMW Z4 SDrive35iS 18 of 20 upgrades). When running the lowest upgraded Nissan 370Z in the time trial, the ghost car smokes me. It’s not even close. The ghost car obviously represents one of the BMWs. Nice to have $5,000 races, though! And to have new purpose for many of my old, maxed out cars.

    Also, I have to say it is quite annoying watching the ghost car take off like a rocket from the line, as well as the incredible acceleration it has off of the turns. Watching it cut corners is also a bit ridiculous, considering if I drive where the ghost car goes, I lose speed. EA has some work to do to iron out these bugs.

    MORE GOLD! I have come to the conclusion that I may never drive the Koenigsegg Agera R or even the Zonda R, as it is just too tempting to spend the gold on a car to close out a series (since before the last game update anyway; there seems to be new-found respect for the lower upgrades, but now this PR criteria requires gold upgrades to even complete). My Koenigsegg Agera has all of the R$ upgrades complete (17 of 24), yet it has but only a PR 81.1, so I will have to spend as much as 500-600 gold to just qualify this car to race. Admittedly, I do spend gold on upgrades, but only when the non-final 3rd or 4th engine, suspension, or drivetrain upgrade calls for it. Any word on whether or not EA is considering a rating for the gold, so that maybe users can buy gold with R$?

    I am up to 47 cars, driver level 176, and 95% complete. Any news on the value of the points users earn with the accomplishments (maybe they should be used to parlay gold, eh)? KEEP RACING!

  20. Kid Brewer says:

    I have learned a lot from this guide. It is put together very well, and kudos for keeping it up to date. Consider adding me as a RR3 friend.

  21. loloyd says:

    Thank you very much for your enlightening article and its insightful comments, Fade To Slack. You all helped me close that Performance Rumble series and let me earn R$18K and 18 gold. For several weeks and thousands of sleepless nights, I was unable to finish this frustrating series just because of the bug in Endurance event from tier 18 where I was previously required to complete 42 kms to get a gold trophy. All my best efforts before garnered me only 32+ kms, with all that I could muster. Finally, I went online and found a getsatisfaction forum saying that there’s a bug there, but it is only here where I found concrete solution as to how I could finally sleep at night. Going offline did not do it for me, I had to explicitly log out of Facebook from inside RR3 just to get a real quota of 27 kms for a gold trophy. My attached picture conveys my appreciation and the culmination to that area of my frustration, but you’ve also allowed me once again the bliss and serenity of sleep. THANK YOU!

  22. HA! I just learned a new trick! The easiest way to win the hunter challenges is to wipe out the pace car as you pass him. This is easier with some cars than others but if you can manage to spin the hunter car as you pass you then have an easy run to the finish line.

    Why didn’t I think of this before?

    • Lev1948 says:

      Another tip/cheat is getting round waiting time for ugrades and maintenance times. It is one I heard of recently so can’t claim it as my own. After a few races with several cars you will have possibly up to 4 hours to wait and in the case of some upgrades 2 days! To get round it, log off the internet connection and change the date on your ipad to 2 days from the current date (or 1 day if only doing maintenance). Go back to RR3 and the upgrades/maintenance will be complete (you may have to try a couple of times) but don’t forget to log back on and change the date to the current date and time. I’ve done this many times and it works well – no waiting times at all if you master the this tip/cheat.

  23. Jan Mleziva says:

    I have spent quite some time with the game and havent found better race for daily bonus than the last race from PRO -> Accolade Open series. It is 5 rounds on Suzuka GP circuit. Im doing it with BMW M3 GT2 ALMS, 10/15 upgrades (68.0 PR), lap time approx 1:42. It nets me around 40K and 3600 fame

    • I picked that Endurance Race because it’s effortless and takes far less cash to get to when farming. Later races will surely net better results, but that’s an affordable tier that people can get into early. It’s also one that can later be farmed easily with a worn out car.

      I’ll test out later series when I have time and include your tip in my next guide update (approximately this weekend), though.

    • WOW! I’ll have to remember that if I ever get up there again. I wiped RR3 off my iphone in order to start again and do my money management right. I’m buying all the cars at 20% discount and hoarding the gold which is saving me a ton of money and I’m getting all nostalgic running all the old races again.

      Also, I’m toying with the idea of not closing out series because it saves me gold. I only want to spend cash at this point and get as high in the different series as possible.

      I’m currently back up to the V8 naturals and waiting for my lexus to be delivered which will let me rip through all those races with minimal upgrades

      • E Shotty says:

        did you buy the charger r/t to unlock the V* naturals or did you find another car first? I’m hoping to unlock the IS-F through some other series.

        • I can’t remember but I think you do have to buy the first one. That seems to be the procedure for certain series. you can’t get into them any other way than to buy the first one and you don’t get that 20% discount either. Thankfully, you don’t need to spend gold on them

    • Eris Karreci says:

      can you confirm it happens now? I tried, gave me R$7k

  24. Damien Despuy says:

    Thanks for this! If you can help me finding some more friends: Damien Despuy on FB or Damien D. in game center…

  25. Jeff Campbell says:

    Just got to the supercar masters series and there was no sale on the lambo, is this the norm from the first ‘pro’ series on? Or did I do something wrong? Anybody who wants to add me as a friend please do.

  26. Likang Cheng says:

    Hi does anyone know the possibilities of getting the Lexus lfa? It one thirty gold and I’ve already bought the mp4 22 c and corvette with gold. It’s too expensive

  27. steve says:

    Has anyone done the update w/ the new Ferrari’s? Do I really have to get past the Zenith series in order to race them?

    • Sadly, yes, you do.

      To get the numbers in the fully-upgraded guide, I bought out all the races in the Zenith series using a hacked Android version.

      Your options are either race or pay.

      I’ve got over four actual days worth of racing time invested in my iOS copy. I’m not even close to sniffing the Zenith series, let alone getting the Ferrari’s myself.

      • Eris Karreci says:

        what’s the best race to make more R$? I’m not going to spend a penny on this game. level 134, 52/58 cars. Many weeks ago, I had a trick, racing the time trial events that I already had a best-lap recorded, racing in it again AND logging out of Facebook, would give me R$5,000 bonus. So I was doing oval circuit with Nissan Sylvia, less than 30 secs, for more 5,500 total. The only condition was: DO NOT BEAT the time you had as logged in with Facebook. That’s why I now have way too many second places overall.

    • Aaron Janes says:


    • loloyd says:

      As of this time’s posting (3 months after your original question post), the main series have been rearranged to show the following sequence:

      0. Elite rank ends with Lexus LFA Showcase Series.

      1. Legend rank starts off with Ferrari Faceoff.
      2. Supercar Elites follow suit.
      3. Spirit of Ferrari comes next.
      4. Zenith Series awaits afterward.
      5. Vertex Series culminates the list of events thus.

  28. Laayla says:

    Hey guys, awesome information here… Does anyone know how many fame points to get a driver level up?

    • loloyd says:

      I noticed that you level up faster and with less fame points at the beginning than at higher levels. I installed this game on a new device and I got to Level 10 with only less than 3 days of relaxed come-as-I-please playing. On my main device where I’m on level 180, I notice that even as I finish races that reward me with over 10,000 fame points, I still have to do them over and over and over and over and race other events before I level up again. I’m not sure how fast my leveling up rate is now, but I think it is less than once a week in my casual style of playing but while keeping a 100% daily bonus condition.

  29. Pieter Hulshoff says:

    You state that the Dodge Challenger R/T unlocks the V8 Muscle Hustle series, but I have that car (without upgrades), and the V8 Muscle Hustle does not show up. Any thoughts on what I may have to do more in order to open it up?

    • Pieter Hulshoff says:

      The Dodge is fully upgraded now, but still no V8 Muscle Hustle. Any ideas on where I went wrong?

      • Eris Karreci says:

        watch for the flag icon and win more trophies, it will show up as soon as you complete up to the flag point… To unlock the V8 Muscle Hustle you need 19 trophies to the main series “Performance rumble”.. Keep in mind that the top screen series are the main series, the bottom screen are bonus series, they do not unlock series, they can unlock new cars a little sooner (like the Chevrolet Cobalt, or other cars that only appear in bonus series) and these bonus series can give you extra R$ and Gold by completing them. Although the winning prizes are half of the main series. Hope it helps

        • Pieter Hulshoff says:

          It seems the information in the article isn’t completely valid anymore since the later upgrades. Races don’t unlock anymore when you buy cars. Oh well, they’ll become available sooner or later. :) Thanx for the reply in any case.

          • Eris Karreci says:

            oh yeah, I see what you mean now, you read the whole article.. that was true before the time trial update, but now as you might know you have to unlock cars, series and events. Personally I find it challenging. But I hate the PR requirement. This article is good to keep track of the stats on Fully Upgraded cars, so you know which Car to upgrade in order to meet the PR requirement.

  30. gl3nn says:

    Anyone here got a R$140, 000. plus a fame of 11, 600 all in just one race?well that’s easy!! In just 12 continuous races ive got a Bugatti veyron 16.4 worth R$1.6M,,,anyone whose amused with that kind of racing earnings can PM me @ glenmorebay083@yahoo.com or glenmorebay083@gmail.com

    • Aaron Janes says:

      nuff said

      • Eris Karreci says:

        that’s incredible…. how many upgrades do you have on it?

        • Eris Karreci says:

          how long does it take to drive 300 miles?

          • Aaron Janes says:

            It takes around 2 hrs to drive 300mi, but I found I can pause the game pretty much indefinetly as long as I dont watch any videos or use my web browser. That being said you can pause it too long or you can loose your daily bonus.
            Its not so much about how upgraded your car is. If you can maintain at least 140mph all the way around the track and stay away from wrecks you can do pretty well. That becomes alot harder as your cars performance deteriorates. You will also have to deal with large groups of cars that tend to completely loose control in the corners and cause massive crashes.
            Right now I have all the upgrades except the last engine upgrade (the Hemi) but I accidently figured this out 3 or 4 upgrades ago.

    • loloyd says:

      Yes. That can be done on the Accolade Open, by hiring the Agent Manager and racing the BMW M3 GTS ALMS on the Suzuka Circuit Grand Prix Circuit Cup at tier 22 without damaging the car too much.

  31. sycmc . says:

    Hi, can anyone tell me how to win Pro/Am>Modern Sports
    Classics>Series 14 Flag Racing US Mid-Season Sports Cup>Cup Indianapolis Motor Speedway Speedway? My version is RR3 1.4.0, level 83 owned 25 of 73 cars and I tried fully upgraded Corvette ZR1, GT-R & MP4-12C but failed and the best position was 3rd place. I did all the suggestions: offline mode, the above cheat to win#1&2, however, it didn’t work=.=!!!!

  32. Azra Abdeen says:

    What’s the maximum pr in zenith series

  33. Jan Mleziva says:

    I am wondering if anyone else has issues with competing against frind´s ghost. Basically those ghost never load for me on my Nexus 4. However when I choose to compete against someone non-friend, I can see their ghosts just fine

  34. Aaron Janes says:

    Great info here! But why isnt the 69 Charger showcase mentioned??? With a well upgraded car, but not fully, and some driving skill you can pretty much rack up miles to infinity. 400mi is my current record and I have screen shots to prove it. combine that with 100% daily bonus and the manager and agent all at once and you can earn $1,000,000 and over 40k in fame points for racing 300mi.

    • Holy cow, that’s beastly.

      I don’t have the ’69 Charger at the moment, but I’m sure as crap going to get it now before they change that.

      • Aaron Janes says:

        I dont think its an actual glitch. I think with the way they have endurance races programmed it just happens to work out that way. Anyway I just got the 2nd Ferrari update with replay and it still works. But it wont let you replay that long of a race lol.

    • Michael Gálvez says:

      Warning: this was fixed with version 2.0.0. If you like this farming technique, which I did dearly, don’t update.

      • Aaron Janes says:

        Yeah I found out about that too late. Im in the process now of figuring out if they possibly moved this “glitch” to another endurance race. Otherwise this game will get to be too much time to put in to advance for me.

        • Virag Shinde says:

          anyway to revert to previous verison? I updated to 2.0.0 too :(

        • That’s a shame… I just got to using this before the update, but definitely sucks that it was nerfed.

          • Nick Thain says:

            Hey is this still nerfed? The going offline to avoid TSM friends? I just tried and it’s not clearing the TSM times out, just wanted to check.. Thanks Fade to Slack!

            • TSM and TSM friends are not handled the same way, sir.

              The offline trick works against random TSM players because that data is culled from the game’s servers. It collects information and does matchmaking and downloads the data within the few seconds that the track loads.

              TSM friend data appears to be kept in memory and, thus, is local. I don’t know if there’s a way to clear that data.

              • Nick Thain says:

                Ah! That makes sense. I’ll try temporarily unfriending my fast friend and let you know if that works. BTW I’m also from Melbourne, and have a love/hate relationship with the track. Uncannily accurate though.. Same for Bathurst, I’ve driven there and it looks just like it.

                • Nick Thain says:

                  Yep! Worked like a charm. Now I just have to suffer the ribbing he’s going to give me about being unable to beat him..

            • loloyd says:

              In my case, I had to log out of FB (from within RR3, or possibly GameCenter or Google+ for you) to be able to play without TSM. When I did that, I was assigned the name “Guest” and I got back to playing with the stock AI opponents with country flag avatars – Rattlesnack, darknezz, auralpod, HooDooVooDoo, MiceOrMan, stayFrosty, etc. I haven’t done this for some time now though so you may want to check that out. There were no problems when I signed back in to my FB as my victories and experience (fame) points got carried along in my account.

      • Aaron Janes says:

        One thing I just discovered with the new version is you can rip wicked donuts!! Before it just did t really work, like your car was fighting it. Doesnt get you anymore money but its fun!

    • Edwind Becerra says:

      what upgrades did you take for that car?


      • Aaron Janes says:

        I have everything but the last engine upgrade. But I was using this technique a couple upgrades before that. If you can maintain over 140mph all the way around the track you can do pretty well.

        • loloyd says:

          Hi, Aaron. Thanks for this info. But even if I have my upgrades only 2 shy from fully upgraded and with speeds not going down 140 mph (or 225 kph) from the start of the race and without hitting any other car or railings, I still get only 18.6 miles (or 30+ kms). What kind of assist do you drive in here? I am driving with steering and traction assist with low braking assist. Do I need to turn all assists off and learn doing it this way so I can get more than 100 miles in this particular endurance event? Thanks for any insight. I am getting frustrated since I have a FB friend who has 300 kms on this event and I can’t even come close on his earnings.

  35. Michael says:

    Hey do you have gamercenter? I want to race some people including you! My gamecenter name is mgracer48 :)

  36. Howard Sadofsky says:

    I’m pretty new to the game; level 48. Game Center ID is dropone21 if anyone can add me.

  37. E Shotty says:

    is there more than one way to unlock the Lexus IS-F? I am one win away from unlocking the “V8 Naturals” series, and i really don’t want to buy Charger R/T if I can unlock the Lexus via some other series. for example: i didn’t have to buy the Skyline in “Pure Stock Challenge” because I unlocked and purchased the 350Z in “Road Car International”… and progress thru “RWD Open Revolution” via the M3 GTS giveaway allowed me to unlock and purchase both ZR1 and 911 GT3 RS, so by the time I get to “Everyday Heroes” I’ve got the best car in the series before i even start.

    my key to this game is spending minimal money on weak cars or cars that can’t fully complete a series, which allows me to keep money in the bank for the one time discounts. any advice is appreciated.

    • loloyd says:

      In more ways than some, the game actually requires you to buy ALL cars. You won’t be able to fully complete a series without buying the “weaker” cars since you have to race them in their own Time Trials and showcase tiers. I think the best and possibly the only strategy is to keep playing and earning R$ and gold so that you’ll have plenty when those weekly car promos come along.

      I used to strategize the same way as you do when I began, but eventually I learned/found out that RR3 was forcing me to buy every car so as to complete a series by 100%, and earn its corresponding R$ and gold.

  38. Erich H. says:

    Does anyone else have trouble getting gold for sharing race results on google+? I have over 70 shares on my google+ page but have never received gold. I’ve asked firemonkeys but never heard from them. Does anyone have success with this?

    This is one of the best threads I’ve found for RR3. Level 86, 50% complete, 33 of 79 cars and a $15mil garage. My latest favorite first race for the bonus is GT3 World Series–>Level 15–>Cup Spa with BMW Z4 GT3, 15 of 24 upgrades. Get around the outside of turn one and be careful through Eau Rouge and you should be in 8th or 9th place. If you can be perfect through the first lap you have a good chance to win, but I generally end up in 3rd place, which still pays out around $11K before bonus. I’m working through the Accolade Open now though, and some of these prizes look pretty sweet.

    • loloyd says:

      I believe only the first instance of sharing on Google+ or on Facebook can be rewarded with gold. All other/subsequent shares will no longer merit you gold so you may stop wasting your effort anymore.

      I also agree that this is possibly the most comprehensive publicly available resource “knowledge-base” on RR3 in the internet. In my case, I’ve logged more than 17d of actual playing time, raced over 45 thousand kilometers, earned R$48M, spent 47.9M, done 78% of the the events, and now own 62 cars. What I usually do with the 100% daily bonus is to head to Accolade Open, hire the Agent Manager and race the BMW M3 GTS ALMS on the Suzuka Circuit Grand Prix Circuit Cup at tier 22 to merit at least R$130,000 after winning that event in 5 long and grueling laps, which takes me around 8 mins and 30 secs to finish. My M3 GTS ALMS is 1 upgrade shy away from being fully upgraded (damn final upgrade on the engine costs way too much precious gold).

      I also almost always look for other Suzuka Circuit Grand Prix Circuit Cups in the main series line of events as I get to achieve the most Fame points and R$ rewards from them per driving time as far as I know.

      -Jeffrey “Loloy D” Ocaya on Facebook
      Level 178

      • Eris Karreci says:

        try changing the date , going 1 day further on your device, race again and you’ll receive 100% bonus again. repeat the process and you get 100% bonus in EVERY race.

  39. Dudedanai CityLad says:

    There’s a shortcut in silver stone…u go ahead by 100 yrds easily…

  40. Lost Wisdom says:

    Cool stuff in here, I just was wondering if anyone tried to win the speed-race in a different way !
    What I discovered was that if you prolongue the first stretch by going backwards at the start and make the score higher than the fastest car by 10 or 20 km/h.
    Just an interesting feature which is not cheating or a bug !

    Cheers, LW

  41. Cameron says:

    Im selling my account, all cars unlocked, over 3/4 bought, all legendary ones bought, over 50 have VIP, $300 of gold and cash in account, around $3000 spent, 99% content remaining foor your enjoyment. Agera R, lambos, Maclaren P1, and Bugatti Veyron as well as others maxed out

    If interested contact me at cameronfoster@shaw.ca

    Thank you

  42. Majestic says:

    Indianapolis speedway Endurance mode isn’t the best way in pro/am, actually it sucks to farm money there. Do the last race in the same group like : Pro/Am > Performance Rumble> Suzuka Circuit Grand Prix …it’s the last race of the last tier in performance rumble. With 100% daily bonus..and also hiring the money agent and fame agent, you’ll receive around 75.000R$ and 6200 fame. All you gotta do is be first of course ^_^ Cheers.

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